Peace Dollar Ways to Collect

Father and son looking at coins together

Brown Dansco album containing a collection of Peace silver dollars by date and mint mark.

Typical Blue Whitman Coin Collection Folders (regular on left and Deluxe on right) for Peace dollars

Typical Library of Coins and completed Dansco album for Peace silver dollars

Accumulation of Coins in a jar, a purse, a box, or a drawer

Accumulation vs. Collection

There’s a difference between an organized collection of Peace silver dollars organized into a coin album by date and mint mark than those accumulated over time because they looked different or were not often encountered. They were stored in a jar, a purse, a box, or a drawer.

Often brand new uncirculated silver dollars from the late 1800s to the early 1900s could be obtained from banks in the 1960s for $1, the face value of a silver dollar at the time. These were often given at birthdays or holidays to children as gifts.

It is more than likely that these silver dollars were obtained from U.S. Treasury releases of bags of silver dollars from the various mints. Chances of finding a rare date/mint mark combination is low. Because mintages of the better date Peace silver dollars were low, it’s likely that the more common dates would be included in these accumulations.

The Method of Storage

Depending on the method of storage and the amount of handling of the coins, it is likely that finding a relatively common Peace silver dollar in high uncirculated grade, gem Mint State 65 or higher is unlikely. So, the chances of finding a valuable Peace dollar in an accumulation is serendipity and would be much lower than from an organized collection.

Those collectors that bought silver dollars in the highest grade they could afford many years ago in order to complete an organized date/mint mark set and then placed them in a protective album are more likely to have a set of higher value. Quite often these sets might be incomplete as the costly key dates could only be afforded by those well-off collectors. Even so, a collection of Peace silver dollars may have quite a bit of valuable silver that adds up quickly with the number of coins in the collection.

Naturally, the key dates in original condition with no problems in higher grades can bring high premiums over the silver content of the dollars.

Peace Dollar Obverse and Reverse Definitions

Diagram labeling parts of a Peace Dollar coin with arrows pointing to features.

Peace Dollar Grading

Man examining an object under bright lamp.

Grading and attributing a coin under a light and magnification

Book: Numismatic Grading Standards, U.S. Coins.

Grading Standards at the American Numismatic Association

The ANA grading standards are essential for accurately assessing the quality of coins in the numismatic field. The American Numismatic Association (ANA) has published its official grading standards since 1977, which serve as a guide for collectors and investors to properly grade U.S. coins. These standards are considered an invaluable resource for anyone involved in buying, selling, or collecting coins. For more detailed resources, you can visit the official ANA website, which offers various grading resources and links to educational materials.

ANA Official Grading Standards - American Numismatic Association : American Numismatic Association

PCGS Has an online pictorial Photograde which can be accessed at:

PCGS Photograde Online - Estimating Coin Grades Has Never Been Easier

Grading_Standards

Like Morgan silver dollars, Peace silver dollars are graded on a scale of 1 to 70, where 1 represents a poor, nearly completely worn example, and 70 represents a coin in perfect condition. Grades 60 to 70 are reserved for uncirculated Mint State (MS) or specially minted Proof (PF) coins that were never in circulation.

There are a number of independent grading services, but silver dollars graded by Numismatic Guaranty Corporation (NGC, NGCCoin.com) and Professional, Coin Grading Service (PCGS, PCGS.com) and Consumer Acceptance Corporation (CAC) tend to command the highest prices when sold. Independent Coin Graders (ICG, ICGcoin.com) and ANACS (ANACS.com) also serve collectors.

Cover of "Coin Worlds: Making the Grade" book featuring various coins.

Coin World’s making the grade

Coin Grading: When to Certify

It is important to mention that the final arbiter in grading is agreement between a buyer and a seller, or alternatively having coins independently authenticated, graded and certified by an impartial third party such as PCGS, NGC or CAC. Since the cost of grading in many cases is considerable, it is often impractical and a waste of money (a minimum of $20 and up, depending on the estimated value of your coin) to have your coins certified. A good general rule: Unless your coin is in the $300 price range, spending about 10% of its value on grading may not be warranted. Many silver dollars fit into this lesser-value category.

There are many resources you can use to build your grading skills. The Official American Numismatic Association Grading Standards for United States Coins, edited by Ken Bressett (Whitman Publishing, LLC) is one of the best. Coin World’s Making the Grade (Amos Press, Inc.) is another good reference with numerous illustrations.

Grading criteria

Perhaps the best advice I can give you first is DO NOT EVER CLEAN YOUR COINS!

Peace silver dollars were minted between 1921 (high relief and not to be confused with the common Morgan design) and 1935. They were struck in Philadelphia (no mint mark), Denver (D mint mark) and San Francisco (S mint mark) which can be found near the rim at about 7 O’clock on the reverse. Coin dealers and collectors can easily spot attempts to clean old coins to make them look better. These clues include, but are not limited to hairline scratches, residue from cleaning agents, eraser marks and unnatural-looking bright spots, or broken luster affecting the reflective quality or sheen on a coin’s flat areas (fields) that are produced during the minting process.

The five main factors taken into account when assigning a mint state or uncirculated grade include: Peace dollar are not normally seen with proof-like or deep-mirror proof-like fields.

  • Strength of strike
  • Quantity of Contact Marks
  • Degree of Luster: Satiny
  • Toning
  • Overall Eye Appeal

Strength of Strike

One of the factors in grading Peace silver dollars is the strength of the strike — the pressure the Mint used to stamp the design on both sides and the rim of the planchet to create a strong, clear image. Strike is generally categorized as weak, average or strong. These are relative terms, most useful in evaluating mint state coins struck at the various mints.

For coins to grade above MS-64, the strike needs to be sharp and above average for that mint.

Contact Marks

It was Kenneth Bressett the well-known numismatist and longtime editor of A Guide Book of United States Coins, “The Red Book,” who said (and I’m paraphrasing here): Grading is easy. All it takes is a good loupe, a good light, and experience from looking at about 100,000 or more coins.

If you are new to grading coins, you might miss seeing tiny contact marks or hairline scratches from coins sliding against hard surfaces or from abrasive cleaning, especially when tilting and twirling a coin under a light, but your observation skills will improve as you grade more coins.

Imagine a newly minted coin being struck, dropped into a bin with other coins, being loaded into a bag of 1,000 coins, then traveling over hundreds of miles by car, truck or train. With all that movement and bouncing up and down next to other coins, you’re bound to get tiny contact marks from silver metal colliding with other silver metal. The results are contact marks.

Coins that are perfect (or nearly perfect under 10x magnification) such as mint state and proofs can be given the highest grade on the grading scale, an MS-70 or PF-70 designation, by an independent grading service. Coins that grade as high as MS-65 or Proof-65 are called Gems because the strike is sharp, the design shows no evidence of wear, luster is above average, and there are only few and very minor contact marks or hairlines in the “prime focal area,” Ms. Liberty’s cheek or the surrounding field, which are relatively easy to see at first glance, as well as the eagle’s body and wings. Gems are generally superb coins with no distracting marks and above average eye appeal.

An average coin, graded MS-63, will have several contact marks and perhaps marks that appear on Ms. Liberty’s cheek or in the fields. Don’t forget the reverse. Coins are graded on both sides, even though the obverse side will count more heavily in the final grade determination.

Coins graded MS-60 will have lots of contact marks, and look pretty marked-up, but there will not be any indication of wear, or slide marks from someone passing the coin back and forth on a hard surface, such as a table.

The toughest coins to grade are those designated Almost Uncirculated (AU-58). These have enough slide marks or slight wear (slightly grayish areas) on the highest surfaces (Ms. Liberty’s cheek and hair and the center of the eagle’s chest on the reverse) to be considered circulated coins.

Coins graded AU-50 to AU-55 simply have more contact marks and a lesser degree of luster. AU-50s will have thousands of contact marks, such that when you tilt and twirl the obverse radically under a light source, you can see a circular halo in the field between Ms. Liberty’s portrait and the letters.

Coins graded Extremely Fine (XF-45) all the way down to Poor-1 have an increasing degree of contact marks and wear due to handling in circulation. It’s best to see the grading illustrations given in grading service links or references cited earlier to determine the degree of wear and, consequently, the coin’s grade.

Luster

As the dies, under great pressure, press blank planchets into coins, the metal spreads from the center outward. Metal flows into open spaces on the obverse and reverse dies forming the raised design and letters, and spreads until it reaches the collar, whose cavities form the silver dollar’s reeding. Remember, the obverse and reverse dies are a negative of the coin’s design features and metal flows into the dies’ recessed areas that form the positive (raised) design of the coin.

During striking, the metal dies pressing against the planchet create flow lines moving out in all directions on the coin’s surface. This imparts coin luster. 

As striking continues, the die deteriorates further, flow lines become more apparent as the dies age, and middle and later die states can be seen, producing coins that typically have orange peel like surfaces and less luster than coins struck from fresh dies. 

Coins struck with very late die states have dull luster, have an orange-peel look to the fields, may show die cracks, and may even have rare and desirable terminal die state raised bits of metal, called die breaks or cuds (raised planchet metal at the rim). This is a result of the die starting to break apart from repeated metal-against-metal striking under great pressure.

Toning

Natural toning or as some people call it, tarnish, is acceptable and sometimes highly desirable. It is the result of the coin being in contact with the sulfur in paper, or exposure over time to oxygen and moisture at elevated temperatures, which produce a delicate micro-thin layer of various colors on a coin’s surface.

Peace dollars stored in older brown Wayte Raymond-type albums attain a beautiful bullet or target type of toning, where attractive concentric circles of color can be seen at the coin’s periphery. Coins stored in rolls tend to take on delineated toning, especially at the ends of the roll. Overlapping colors from the paper folds at the end of the roll may result in an attractive appearance. Coins sitting in Mint bags next to the cloth may take on an attractive texture from the sulfur in the fabric. There may be attractive crescent toning at the edges of a coin, with double or triple crescents evident, or one-side or wildly attractive two-sided toning. However, Peace dollars tend to have less colorful toning than Morgan dollars. 

Toning can make the coin look beautiful, like a piece of art, and can increase the value of a Peace silver dollar significantly, sometimes doubling or tripling its value, or more. On the other hand, ugly toning can reduce a coin’s value. Natural toning may or may not be desirable, but lately more and more collectors demand little, if any, toning. Old-timers and dealers tend to like toning because it reflects a coin’s originality and can be appreciated as a piece of art. If it makes you feel good-looking at your coin every time you pull it out, there’s a good chance the next owner will feel the same and want to spend a good bit more to own it. Never try to clean the toning from your coin. You will reduce its value!

Overall Eye Appeal

Among eye-appeal features collectors find are sharply struck and beautifully toned coins. The more attractive the toning, the more desirable it may be. Beautiful two-sided toned coins and spectacular and tend to bring a premium over their common value. This is where numismatics and art meet. Visit some examples of beautiful toning elsewhere (Cool Silver Dollar Pictures) on this website.

Because grading is somewhat subjective, independent graders at grading services typically use two graders, then a third-grader, the finalizer, to determine grade. Thus, if there is disagreement among the first two graders, the finalizer, the grader with the most experience, swings the vote. The overall appearance is reflected in the final assignment of grade.

Uncirculated coins — those that were set aside and never used as money, will be worth more if they are in high grade. Collectors look for pristine coins with original surfaces that can easily be destroyed through improper handling. Even circulated coins that have been mixed in pocket change and handled frequently in commerce will be worth more if you don’t add to the wear they already have. Below are some tips for safe handling and storage.

  • Don’t touch the faces of your coins — the front (obverse/heads) and back (reverse/tails) — which can leave behind fingerprints, oil, dirt and moisture from your skin.
  • Use hand sanitizer to remove skin oils from your hands, especially your fingertips, before examining coins, or wear latex gloves.
  • Don’t slide coins on any hard surface, which can leave hairline scratches on the high points of the design.
  • Examine coins over a soft surface in case you accidentally drop one. Dings and scratches reduce value.
  • Don’t sneeze on, eat around or otherwise get contaminants on them. Be careful talking over your coins, as tiny aerosol droplets of saliva can cause damage to the fragile surfaces.
Morgan Dollar Proof-Like Guide diagram.
1921 Peace Dollar, obverse and reverse sides.

1921 Peace Silver Dollar Proof (a PCGS image)

1926 silver dollar in protective case.
1922 silver dollar in graded coin holder.

Images of a red Paramount LaVere Redfield holder (left) and an NGC Ted Binion Hoard holder.

Peace Silver Dollar Proof-like (PL) and Deep Mirror Proof-like (DMPL) Die States

Unlike Morgan Silver dollars, it is very rare to find a Peace silver dollar with proof-like or deep mirror proof-like surfaces. It would be far more likely that a Peace dollar with mirror-like surfaces was a result of severe polishing after the coin was minted. This would result in a damaged coin with undesirable surfaces and would likely be called a cull. This would be particularly noticeable in and around the date and letters, where it is difficult to polish the coin. These areas would look different (less polished) than the fields.

If you believe you have a very early die state Peace silver dollar with mirrors in the field, we suggest you get a second opinion from a knowledgeable local coin dealer. After that, you can submit your coin to a grading service for authentication, attribution and grading.

Peace Dollar Proofs & Patterns

Reference to Judd, Pollock and Bowers books

Peace silver dollar proofs are very rare and valuable. Few, were minted. These were prepared with a satin finish in 1921 and a matte finish in 1922. A sandblasted antiqued finish proof was also struck in 1921 (J-2015) and an antiqued finish pattern was struck in 1922. It is labeled J-2020 in the Judd pattern book.

If you believe you have a proof or pattern Peace silver dollar, we suggest you get a second and third opinion from knowledgeable local coin dealers. After that, you should compare your coin to pictures given on the internet and in various reference books before submitting your coin to a grading service for authentication, attribution and grading. These coins can trade for tens of thousands of dollars! 

A good reference is given by J. Hewitt Judd, M.D., in 2003, titled United States Pattern Coins Experimental and Trial Pieces, edited by Q. David Bowers and published by Whitman Publishing Company, LLC., Atlanta, GA. A second is by Andrew W. Pollock III, titled United States Patterns and Related Issues. The foreword is by Q. David Bowers and was published by Bowers and Merena Galleries, Inc. Wolfeboro, NH.

Peace Silver Dollar Provenance-Famous Hoards & Pedigrees

Peace silver dollars housed in historical pedigreed original holders can add value to these coins, above and beyond the normal numismatic market value of a common silver dollar in the same condition. Why? Because collectors appreciate the historical value, these coins bring. When buying or selling coins with desirable pedigrees, you can expect to get a premium for these coins.

Peace Silver Dollar Government Services Administration (GSA Releases)

Perhaps the most recognizable Peace silver dollar hoard is the Government Services Administration (GSA) release of coins in a soft pliobag.

While many of these GSA Peace silver dollars are common, some are better dates and mintmarks and better conditions, which influence the market value and premiums over common non-GSA silver dollars. Certification and grading is recommended for Peace silver dollars valued over $300.

United States silver dollar in protective packaging.

Envelope and soft pliopack of a GSA Peace Dollar

1923 silver dollar in graded packaging.

NGC Certified soft pliopack of a GSA Silver Dollar

Careful Storage

People often end up dealing with a jar, purse, box, or drawer full of coins collected by a relative. They may be taped to cardboard, sorted into sandwich bags, stored in soft flips or remain loose and take on more contact marks when moved. These are fine for storing low-value silver dollars that might sell for near silver value, but could cause damage to more valuable silver dollars you may have.

  • Keep your coins in a cool, dry place away from direct contact with sulfur sources (i.e., paper, wood, heater or boiler) along with a desiccant such as silica gel.
  • Don’t store Peace silver dollars in clear soft, see-through 2-by-2-inch flips or other holders made of Polyvinvlchloride (PVC) (including some old coin album pages) for long periods of time, such as several months. PVC tends to interact with heat and silver, and can cause irreversible damage. PVC has a greenish tinge and is highly carcinogenic, so avoid touching the slimy greenish PVC-caused deposits you find on your coins. This can damage your coin, making them uncollectable and reducing their value substantially. Soft PVC flips are easily bendable without breaking! Hard plastic flips do not bend easily and have no PVC. When in doubt, consult with a numismatic professional.
  • For short-term storage — six months or less — you can use tissue paper, aluminum foil, soft flips or commercial albums to store your coins.
  • For long-term storage — more than six months — 2x2 Mylar flips, good quality coin albums as well as Airtight™ and similar hard plastic holders are best.
Coin holders and a coin on black background.

2”x2” coin flips w/Mylar windows

Clear lid with foam ring on gray background.

AirtightTM plastic coin holder

Coin flips and PVC-free holders displayed.

Hard 2”x2” flip (must be PVC free)

A 1923 silver Liberty coin with a profile of a woman's head.
A silver coin featuring a muscular bird flexing its arm.
A close-up of a U.S. coin featuring a perched bird design.
A detailed coin featuring a bird in flight against a radiating background.

Some examples of rotated dies vs a normal 180 degree orientation (top and bottom) when flipped side to side.

Peace Dollar Rotated Dies

Identifying Rotated Dies

Rotated dies: These are easy to spot if you flip the coin from top to bottom. The image of the eagle should be upright. If the Eagle is rotated clockwise to the right, or counterclockwise to the left by more than 15 degrees (normal mint tolerance), you have a scarce to rare rotated die. Rotated dies become quite valuable in mint state and with some circulated dates. The greater than degree of rotation, the higher the value of the coin with coins at 90 degree and 10 degrees having high visual appeal, although rotations can exist at any degrees.

Peace silver dollars known to have rotated dies:

  • 1921-P (small rotation)
  • 1922-P
  • 1922-D
  • 1923-P
  • 1924-P

A detailed account is given by Fey (2008), A Decade of Top 100 Insights, Rare Coin Investments (RCI), Ironia, NJ

The most accurate way to measure rotated dies is with the Rota Flip™ Die Measurement overlay by Leroy Van Allen. Normal mint tolerance is +/- 15 degrees. Beyond that, the dies were rotated out of the normal 180 degrees alignment. These Peace silver dollars are scarce and deserve a numismatic premium depending on coin grade and degree of rotation.

Booklet titled "Rotated Die Coin Measurements".
Coin rotation guide with measurement markings.

Leroy Van Allen Rota Flip™ and Guide available from Rare Coin Investments (RCI), Ironia, NJ 07845 Feyms@aol.com

Peace Dollar Errors

Much like with Morgan dollar errors, millions of Peace silver dollars were struck at the U.S. Mints at Philadelphia, San Francisco, and Denver, and some were bound to be struck in error, perhaps because of a machine breakdown or a machine setting out of place (too little pressure, too much pressure, etc.)

Though each error coin is unique, the general type of error can be used to classify them and provides a basis for valuation. Search online or at ebay.com for coins at a comparable grade with the same type of error to get an idea of what your coin is worth, though certification by an independent authentication and grading service is recommended.

Silver coins with eagle and Liberty designs.

1922 Peace dollar with reverse lamination

Kinds of minting errors

Laminations

In some cases, the metal in coin blanks was improperly alloyed, causing pieces of metal to flake or peel off a coin’s surface. These are called laminations, and areas under them are typically rough. Unless the lamination is large, the coin would not be worth certifying, though it may be worth a small premium to an error collector.

Planchet Errors

Coin in protective NGC grading case.
Mint error silver coin in plastic case.

Example of an NGC Type I planchet error (left) and a PCGS Type 2

A flat silver dollar blank was processed through an upsetting machine or upset mill, where its rim was formed, turning it into a planchet ready for coining. Type 1 planchet errors appear as blanks that are the size of a silver dollar but lack a raised rim. Type 2 errors are planchets (with a raised rim) that are unstruck. Both are worth a premium as errors and are worth sending to NGC or PCGS for authentication, certification and grading.

1922 Peace Dollar coin in graded holder.

Example of a 1922 Peace dollar with a cracked planchet error

Cracked Planchet errors occur when a silver dollar is struck over a cracked planchet. These are rare, but do not carry a huge premium.

Striking Errors

Die Adjustment Pieces

Worn silver coin with a profile of Liberty wearing a winged cap.

Rare Peace silver dollar Die Adjustment Strike (Photo Courtesy of Heritage Auctions)

Planchets were used to make test pieces during setup while striking pressure was adjusted to get coins with the desired detail. If the pressure was set too low, the coins’ detail was weak, but more importantly, the pressure was too weak to impart the reeding from the collar that held the coin to an exact silver dollar size. These coins lack detail on parts of the obverse and reverse, but also weak reeding, making them rare die adjustment pieces that command a high premium. These should definitely be certified by a reputable grading service.

Misaligned Die

1922 Liberty coin in protective case.

Example of a Misaligned obverse Peace dollar (note thickness on left rim)

This is another type of adjustment piece, where the obverse and reverse dies are not perfectly aligned. If one die is off-center, you might see the design on one side of the coin looking a little off-center. However, it is not so far off-center that the lettering nearest the rim is affected.

Rotated Dies

These are easy to spot if you flip the coin from top to bottom. The image of the eagle should be upright. If the Eagle is rotated clockwise to the right, or counterclockwise to the left by more than 15 degrees (normal mint tolerance), you have a scarce to rare rotated die. Rotated dies become quite valuable in mint state and with some circulated dates. The greater than degree of rotation, the higher the value of the coin with coins at 90 degree and 10 degrees having high visual appeal, although rotations can exist at any degrees.

A detailed account is given by Fey (2008), A Decade of Top 100 Insights, Rare Coin Investments (RCI), Ironia, NJ

Strike Through

Reverse side of a U.S. silver dollar coin with an eagle.

Example of a Peace dollar struck thru a foreign substance.

During the minting process, objects or substances — wire, wood, cloth from a Mint bag, metal scrap, grease, etc. — may have landed between the planchet and dies and gotten “struck into and through” to the planchet. Unless large and very noticeable on mint state coins they do not command a huge premium, but may be worth the cost of certification.

Struck Through Grease

Die adjustment pieces should not be confused with coins accidentally struck through grease, which have parts of the silver dollar design missing but always have strongly struck reeds at the edge. This more common error does not command a huge premium, but may be worth sending to the grading service if the affected area is large and quite easily noticeable and the coin is in a high grade, perhaps AU or better.

Struck Through Slag

On some silver dollars, an unappealing black streak can be seen on the coin’s surface. That black substance is a metal contaminant, or slag, and almost always detracts from the coin’s value.

Partial Collar

Edge of a coin on wood surface.

Example of a Morgan or Peace Dollar with a straight partial collar (aka railroad rim)

The edge on a Morgan or Peace silver dollar (the “third side of the coin”) is formed by the collar, which imparts the reeding. If the coin is out of position in the collar, it can form what looks like a railroad track, with a smooth “rail” all the way around a portion of the edge and a truncated “track” (reeding) around the rest, either straight or tilted. This is described as a partial collar or a tilted collar. These coins command premiums and should be certified.

Mechanical (Strike) Doubling

This type of doubling, a mistake that occurs during the minting process, is often confused with die doubling, which is caused by a defective die — one that bears a double design image. It does not command any premium. If the dies are not tight in the press, there’s a chance the die can move a little in one direction as the coin is struck. This results in a slight doubling of many features in one direction, the direction of the die movement. It can be distinguished from die doubling in that it often appears as a shadow of the original date, mintmark, letters or portrait; it occurs in one direction; there is no split serif seen at the very edges of letters or numbers as you see in die doubling; and the doubling is always lower in the field. Imagine a shearing effect of metal from the tops of a letter struck on a coin to a slightly lower image next to it as the die slips in that direction when striking a coin. Actual die doubling always shows a number or letter doubled at the same height next to it, and often shows a split in the serif.

Die Breaks and Rim Cuds

Close-up of a carved stone face.

Hot 50 1922 VAM 2B Peace silver dollar VAM 1B Late Die State with a huge die break (Moustache) across Ms. Liberty's face.

Die breaks show up on coins as raised metal that has flowed into a crack or break in the die under the intense pressure of striking. Rim cuds are metal that flowed into a break on the edge of the die, and are seen as raised metal at the rim. These are considered more as die states — stages of a die’s working life, expressed as early die state (when it’s new) to late die state (when it is worn and may even be cracked or broken). There is a heavy premium for large die breaks and rim cuds on silver dollars.

Heavy-Premium Errors

Broad Strike

1922 Liberty and Eagle silver dollar coins.

Example of a centered Broad Struck Peace silver dollar (larger size than a normal silver dollar)

If the planchet was not contained by the collar during striking, the metal spread out in all directions. These larger-than-normal Morgan silver dollars are desirable errors that command a heavy premium.

Off-Center Strike

1924 silver coin held in gloved hand.

Example of a 25% 1924 off-center Peace silver dollar

This occurs when the coin is struck outside the collar. Naturally, some of the reeding may be missing as well as some of the denticles. Typically, if the off-centering cuts into the lettering, the coin is considered off-center, otherwise it's considered a broadstruck. The degree to which it’s off-center is usually described by percentage — 10% OC, 25% OC, 50% OC, etc. The more off-center, the greater the “WOW” factor and the higher the value. These errors are highly prized among collectors. Certification by a reputable grading service is highly recommended.

Double/Multiple Strike

Silver coin with an eagle engraving.

Example of a rare double struck Peace silver dollar

When a coin is not fully ejected after striking, double or even multiple strikes are possible. If the planchet rotates between strikes, this creates multiple images. These errors are very rare and highly prized among collectors. Certification by a reputable grading service is highly recommended.

Capped Die

Ancient coin with a profile engraving.

Example of a very rare Morgan dollar brockage

When a coin fails to eject after striking and another planchet feeds in on top of it and is struck, you can get what is called a capped die. The image on that side of the coin is blurred, and partially obliterated. This error is extremely rare. We have no image of this on a Peace silver dollar.

Brockage

In the case of a capped die, when the design from the second strike is imparted into the first strike, it’s called a brockage. This error is also extremely rare and should be certified. We have no image of this on a Peace silver dollar.

Graded 1922 coin in protective case.

Example of a beautifully toned PCGS Silver dollar reverse.

Peace Dollar Certified Populations

For pictures of the type of certification holders that you might find with Peace dollars, please refer to the section on Morgan Dollar Certified Populations.

There are a number of independent grading services, but silver dollars graded by Numismatic Guaranty Corporation (NGC, NGCCoin.com) and Professional, Coin Grading Service (PCGS, PCGS.com) and Consumer Acceptance Corporation (CAC) tend to command the highest prices when sold. Independent Coin Graders (ICG, ICGcoin.com) and ANACS (ANACS.com) also serve collectors, but aren't always perceived by the coin market as accurate as the former. While grading fees may be less expensive for ICG and ANACS, the values they bring may be lower than the former grading services, although I've found many desirable and greater valued coins in their holders.

It is important to mention that the final arbiter in grading is agreement between a buyer and a seller. Having coins independently authenticated, graded and certified by an impartial third party such as PCGS, NGC or CAC helps facilitate making the decision to agree on price. Since the cost of grading in many cases is considerable, it is often impractical and a waste of money (a minimum of $20 and up, depending on the estimated value of your coin) to have your coins certified. A good general rule: Unless your coin is in the $300 price range or more, spending about 10% of its value on grading may not be warranted. Many silver dollars fit into this lesser-value category.

Peace Dollar Rare Die Varieties (VAMS)

The SSDC and VAMworld.com are the best places to learn about Morgan and Peace silver dollar varieties. You can join the SSDC and list your Registry Set at: http://registry.ssdcvams.com/entry/

The following is a historical video of the 1st VAMmaster Award to those who have made significant contributions to collecting silver dollar varieties.

Bronze eagle sculpture on black base.

The coveted Society of Silver Dollar Collectors (SSDC) VAMmaster Award

Silver dollar coins and collectors' society logo.

Society of Silver Dollar Collectors (SSDC)

Close -up of a Hot 50 1934 D VAM 3 or VAM 4 "Doubled Rays", a premium variety

Rare VAM 4 micro D mintmark reverse

Close-up of coin with small "D" mark.

Scarce VAM 3 Large blob mintmark reverse

Close-up of a carved stone face.

1923 VAM 1b Mustache Die Break Obverse

The rarest, most desirable Peace silver dollar varieties was published in 2002 by the Society of Silver Dollar Collectors (SSDC) in The Official Guide to the Top 50 Peace Dollar Varieties by Jeff Oxman and David Close, M.D. SSDC, P.O. Box 2123 North Hills, CA 91393. Two examples of rare die varieties are illustrated above with the 1934 D VAM 4 small clear D reverse and the 1923 VAM 1B Mustache Die Break obverse.

Key References for Peace Dollars

A great reference about Peace dollars as well as rare die varieties was published in 2024 by Leroy Van Allen, edited by Michael S. Fey, Ph.D. titled Wonders of Peace Dollars, RCI, P.O. Box C, Ironia, NJ 07845. It is available from IngramSpark book publishing and in digital form from Amazon.

Finally, the definitive reference on Morgan & Peace silver dollars 5th edition was published in 2024 with the Comprehensive Catalog and Encyclopedia of Morgan & Peace Silver Dollars by Leroy Van Allen and A. George Mallis, edited by Michael S. Fey, Ph.D. Part III is primarily devoted to Peace silver dollar VAM varieties.

This too is available from IngramSpark book publishing and in digital form from Amazon.

Cherry-picking rare coins involves selecting coins that are undervalued or have unique characteristics that make them desirable to collectors. This can include coins with rare die varieties, minting errors, low mintage numbers, or historical significance. It’s also important to have a good understanding of coin grading and the coin market.

Peace Dollar Supply & Demand Considerations

Pricing Considerations

Top 50 Peace Dollar Varieties book cover.
Morgan & Peace Dollars book cover image.
Two shiny red cherries with stems.
Book cover titled 'Wonders of Peace Silver Dollars' with images of silver coins.